Whether they’re delight or curse, fabrics that aren’t so easy to sew can make your garment stand out. They offer a luxurious drapey fabrics and an elegant finish that’s hard to achieve with other materials and they are incredibly popular for many great reasons.
However, their smooth surface and the fact that they shift and slide when sewing them doesn’t make it as fun.
But you’ll be glad when you will finish it and see the masterpiece before you. This guide for how to sew slippery fabric will help you through this minefield of difficulty.
We have all the information you need from preparation and techniques to start sewing with slippery fabrics. Follow this for flawless results.
Sewing Materials (Pixabay)
Slippery When Sewn
Before we dive deep into how to sew slippery fabric, understand these types of fabrics first. These fine fabrics include silk, satin, chiffon, charmeuse, and rayon just to name a few. These are slippery!
That means every time you handle them during the process of making your project (no matter if its cutting, sewing patterns, or sewing seams), be very gentle with them. Else it may get distorted.
Preparation is Key
If you want to sew with smooth fabrics, then get ready to wash and prep them. Follow these steps:
1. Washing and Pressing
Clean the fabric by washing it gently. This first wash will remove any residue or sizing that could affect the fabric when you’re sewing it later on.
Dry it carefully as well by adhering to the manufacturer’s instructions so that any delicate materials don’t get damaged in the process. Once it’s dry, iron down all of those stubborn wrinkles.
2. Cutting with Care
For slippery fabrics, keep your scissors sharp or use a rotary cutter to prevent frayed edges. If it is shifting while cutting, weigh the pattern down with small weights or steady it on cutting table with pins so you can press on without worries.
Try to cut it in one single layer or two layers if possible. This will help you stay accurate and avoid grain line distortion.
3. Stabilizing
Add lightweight interfacing around seam allowances or hems if you need extra structure without adding bulk.
However, some people prefer using spray starch instead of interfacing because spraying and pressing both slightly stiffen fibers and make them easier to handle before they settle down again after being washed once more.
Sewing Slippery Fabric(istockphoto)
Tricks for How to Sew Slippery Fabric
Now that you’ve got your slippery fabric all ready, it’s time to start sewing. Here are some techniques that can help you sew and manage slippery fabrics with confidence:
1. Pick the right needle and thread
Choose needles made specifically for fine materials, like microtext or ballpoint. Go for high-quality thread that matches both the needle and the weight and color of the fabric, so it blends seamlessly. Don’t use thick threads or sharp needles because that could pucker or damage the needle or material.
2. Pinning and basting
Normal straight pins are awkward to handle, especially on slippery fabrics. Instead, try using fine silk pins or fabric clips to hold things in place.
Stick them perpendicular to your sewing machine for seam allowance. Space and pin them closely together to stop any further fabric shifting during machine sewing.
To further secure things before permanently stitching fabric or pin in it down, bast seams and hems with a long straight stitch.
3. Seam finishes
Pick seam finishes that don’t add extra bulk while keeping the fabric’s flowy drape intact. French seams encase fabric with raw edges for a tidy look; narrow or flat rolled hems work well on lightweight materials like chiffon or silk. Experiment with some options until you find one perfect for your project.
4. Adjust stitch settings
Fine tune your sewing machine part’s tension and stitch length settings so they work better with slippery fabrics.
Shorten your stitch length to avoid puckering. Make sure your seams are sturdy enough; slightly decrease tension so silk thread or fabric feeds smoothly through French seam without stretching too much or getting distorted.
Before getting down on the real thing, test these settings on a scrap piece of material to get optimal results.
5. Pressing and finishing
Press seams and hems of finished garment carefully at each step of garment construction to set stitches properly and keep shape of the material intact when working with delicate fibers. Use cool iron setting along with a pressing cloth so you avoid scorching anything by accident.
If you want extra stability, put a press cloth or silk organza strip between the fabric, machine presser foot and ironing board to prevent shine or imprints.
Seamstress sewing a piece of cloth at home (istockphoto)
Remember These Tips
Let’s dig into these tips and tricks that’ll stick with you when sewing with fabrics and patterns that seem to run away from you.
1. Use Fabric Weights or Clips
Ever get frustrated when your fabric moves around as you’re trying to cut or sew? Instead of stabbing the fabric and pin it all over, try using fabric weights or clips instead silk pins.
Not only do these keep your pattern pieces of fabric in place, but they also help to ensure your cut lines are accurate. You can place weights along the edges of the fabric to secure it, while clips can be attached without leaving a mark.
2. Control Your Environment
Like a greased-up piglet, slippery fabrics just seem to slide away from us even more in drafty areas. If possible, work in a controlled environment that has minimal air movement.
Close windows and doors to reduce drafts, and use a table with a smooth surface for added stability.
3. Swap Feet
Different sewing machine feet give varying amounts of control and stability when working with slippery or delicate fabrics. For instance, if you’re sewing long seams or working with something delicate that needs extra care, try using a walking foot or roller foot instead.
These special feet make sure everything feeds evenly so nothing slips out from under the needle.
Woman dressmaker cutting fabric textile with scissors (istockphoto)
4. Take Advantage of Fabric-Specific Techniques
Some silk shiny fabrics may need special techniques to achieve the best results for your silk project’s aesthetic. If you’re working on silk charmeuse, try using silk with a hand-rolled silk hem for an elegant silk finish.
On the edge of the fabric, use a flat, narrow rolled edge hem foot when sewing chiffon or lightweight silks for beautifully finished edges without creating any bulk.
5. Be Patient and Persistent
Sewing anything has its own challenges for newbies. However slippery fabric is especially unforgiving sometimes.
Don’t be discouraged if all of your first attempts are complete failures! You can join communities to feel inspired from others’ works.
This will help you develop your skills and gain the confidence to tackle even after school projects and the most difficult projects.
6. Test With Scraps
Before you dive into the serious part of your project, gather scraps to test out your techniques on similar pattern pieces and scraps (same fabric).
This way, if something goes wrong, you won’t have ruined an entire piece! You can test different stitch lengths, tensions, and seam finishes without any risk at all.
7. Rest Your Eyes
Sewing with slippery fabrics can be a straight up headache sometimes. Avoid fatigue and eye strain by taking breaks and resting your eyes regularly.
Look at distant objects or close them for a few moments to give yourself some relief. Step away from the machine and stretch your muscles as well. It’ll make a huge difference in how quickly you finish!
With practice and perseverance, you’ll soon develop the skills and confidence to make silk project and create stunning garments that showcase the beauty and elegance of silk fabrics.
cropped shot of tailor cutting textile with scissors at workplace with various tailoring items isolated on white (istockphoto)
Conclusion
Sewing with slippery fabrics is really challenging. But it’s worth the effort because the results are stunning. All you need is a bit of patience and right guidance, and your creativity will shine through.
Just make sure to take time to prepare your fabric correctly, select the right tools and techniques, then sew with care.
With practice, you’ll become a master at sewing slippery fabrics. Then, your options will be endless when it comes to creating sophisticated and stylish pieces. So go ahead and embrace the challenge! Trust the process!
