There I was infatuated by my pile of knit fabric as if it was a monster waiting to be tamed. I knew, I knew through other resources that knits were easy to sew but the fuss over getting them attached without slipping, bunching or making me weeping over my cup of coffee was too exhausting. And then – wow – I realized it is all about the Straight Stitched foot with a super stretch needle. What?
Straight Stitched Foot and Super Stretch Needle: Friendship always endures.
It seems that if you just add a super stretch needle, with your straight-stitching foot and sew knits with it, then most of the problems associated with sewing knits would be solved. And let me tell you, it works. My stitches are as neat as can be, no missing stitches, and I can even stop myself from pulling my hair out.
But what if I want to zig-zag? Well, that’s a whole different story.
The Arrival of Zig-Zag Stitches
Of course you won’t be able to use a straight stitch foot for zig-zag stitches unless you enjoy needle breaking as a fun hobby. (Spoiler alert: I do not.) If you need that zig-zag action you will want to switch to a foot that is made for that action, like the tricot or knit foot. These are made specifically for stretch fabrics and help minimize drag such that you do not struggle with your fabric the whole time.
Pro tip: If you’re too lazy sometimes just leave the knit foot on even for the straight stitches. It is that useful.
What About A Walking Foot?
Ah, the ever reliable walking foot. Is it cumbersome? Yes. Is it effective for sewing knitted fabric? Yes. For anybody else who has ever had to sew two layers of knit fabric together, only to find that one layer is now twice the length of the other, you know about the wrath I am talking about. A walking foot prevents that whole scenario of “shifting of the fabric layers by layers,” as both layers of the fabric are evenly fed through the machine.
The downside? It is bulky, and attaching it to your machine is like gearing up to go to war. But once it’s on and working, it is sheer beauty.
Tissue Paper Trick: A Love-Hate Relationship
If your knit fabric is particularly slippery or misbehaving, tissue paper can be your best friend. Simply place a tissue paper underneath your fabric, stitch it, and it’ll help in holding the fabric in place while you sew. The downside? Getting the little bits of paper out from the stitches later on is… well, rather unpleasant.
Some people use water-soluble stabilizers instead, but to be honest, I find tissue paper quite effective especially in a tight situation. It has to be acknowledged though that one is going to have to pull off all those pieces of paper that have been inserted into the stitch one after the other.
When Does the Tricot Foot Make an Appearance?
For lightweight or silky knits, the tricot foot is definitely helpful. It works by feeding the material without distorting waves where they were not needed and without even stretching your fabric. For the most part, I do use it for those close to similar fabric types which make me want to quit my sewing job altogether, but it’s a good implement having when one gets desperate.
The Beginners Guide to Knits
In case you are teaching sewing to someone (like I am) and they are fond of knits but lack a serger, then this is what they will require:
- Straight stitch foot
- Walking foot (bulky but effective)
- Tricot foot for lighter knits
- Super stretch needles (complete lifesavers)
- Tissue paper (as a last resort)
It is actually possible for even a novice to apply some correctly and achieve good results with knits. Just let them know that sewing knits on a simple machine is possible— people have been doing it for so many years without the the technological advancements we have now.
Knit fabrics used to rub me the wrong way, and with the right equipment (and a little patience), they are actually quite enjoyable. It could be Ziz, ZAG, and you winning or you ZIZ ZAGING since it will be Ok. And if everything turned out to be an epic failure, tissue paper is always there for you.
