I had a conversation with a seasoned leatherworker who said, “The right thread size makes all the difference between a strong seam and a project that falls apart.” That conversation got me thinking about how important it is to understand a leather sewing thread size chart.
Whether you’re hand sewing leather or using a sewing machine—be they industrial sewing machines or home sewing machines—choosing the right thread size is crucial for good strong, durable, and looking stitches in your leather projects.

Let’s Break Down the Numbers Together
A leather sewing thread size chart can seem scary at first but it’s really just numbers. Thread sizes are measured in Tex (T) and Diameter (mm or inches). Higher Tex numbers mean thicker and stronger threads.
For example, if you’re working on fine leather items like wallets, watch straps, or handbags you’ll want to use threads in the Tex 30 to Tex 70 range. For belts, upholstery or medium-duty items threads from Tex 90 to Tex 210 are your go-to.
And for heavy-duty projects like saddlery or industrial applications Tex 270 and above is the way to go. This clear-cut breakdown helps you match the thread size to your project’s requirements.
For those diving into the details of hand-stitched leathercraft, @B_Geisler from r/Leathercraft offers a comprehensive guide on thread sizes and stitches per inch (SPI). From pricking irons to awl sizing, this resource breaks down the essentials, helping artisans choose the right tools and techniques for precision stitching.
Whether you’re working with linen, polyester, or specialty threads, understanding SPI can elevate the durability and aesthetics of your leather projects, making every stitch a mark of craftsmanship.
Guide to Thread Sizes and Stitches Per Inch (SPI) for Handsewing
byu/B_Geisler inLeathercraft
Picking the Perfect Thread Material
The type of thread you choose is just as important as the size. I’ve tried different materials, from polyester thread and nylon thread to linen thread. Each has its benefits. Polyester threads are known for their strength and wear resistance.
Nylon or polyester threads are good for projects that need a bit of flexibility and linen thread is great for a natural look. Some projects even benefit from using bonded nylon thread which adds an extra layer of durability when working with thick leather.
Understanding the material characteristics ensures your stitches are not only strong but also look good.
Matching Your Thread with the Right Needle Sizes
A common mistake I see even among experienced craftsmen is neglecting the importance of needle size. The needle sizes must match the thread thickness to avoid oversized stitch holes or seam failure.
Whether you’re hand sewing or using a sewing machine, choosing the right sewing needles’ size is key. For thicker threads and leather a big needle is needed.
This small detail can make a big difference in your project and your leather goods will have the strength and finesse you want.
In the world of leathercraft, every detail matters—from thread size to stitch spacing. @PernaLeatherworks recently shared a handy visual from a leather shop in Osaka, offering a glimpse into these subtle yet crucial design choices. Whether you’re a seasoned artisan or just leather-curious, understanding these elements can elevate your appreciation for well-crafted pieces.
Thread size and stitch spacing examples
byu/PernaLeatherworks inLeathercraft
Real World Tips from the Workshop
A colleague told me how switching to a higher Tex size made his belts and saddles last longer even under daily use. He said a well-matched thread not only enhances stitch definition but also prevents seam failure.
A simple change like using a lighter thread for fine leather and a heavier thread for thick material can make a big difference in your work.
These real-world tips show that understanding the thread thickness, material, and needle size isn’t just theory it’s practical advice that can save you time and money in the long run.
The Takeaway: Stitch Your Way to Success
In the world of leather work understanding the leather sewing thread size chart is more than a technical requirement it’s the key to making professional leather goods. From understanding Tex sizes, material thickness, and thread diameters to choosing the right material like polyester, nylon, or linen thread every detail counts.
Whether you’re working on fine wallets or heavy-duty belts matching your thread to the project’s requirements means every stitch counts. So next time you plan a leather project remember the advice from that wise friend in the workshop: take the time to understand your thread sizes and you’ll see the difference in every seam.