Do you want to learn how to sew knit fabric? We are here to save the day.
Knit fabric designs are essential for comfortable fashion, from “I can’t take this thing off. It’s so soft” sweaters to everyday t-shirts. They’re unique because they consist of interlocking threads in a looping method different from woven fabrics. This weaving gives many types of knit fabric the stretchability and elasticity that many sewing enthusiasts love.
1. Understanding Knit Fabrics
Because knit fabric is breezy and flexible (its most noticeable features), there are specific techniques you have to master when sewing with it. It seems knit fabric stretches well, but not all stretching is good when making clothes. Sewists must familiarize themselves with the types of knit fabrics and the appropriate needles and stitches needed to maintain these materials’ integrity.
Different types of knit fabrics serve various purposes. The lightweight jersey fabric has a lot of stretch; rib knit fabric has vertical lines and lots of elasticity; interlock knit fabric is thicker and more stable than jersey material. Each type should be sewn differently.
2. Benefits of Sewing with Knit Fabric
What makes knits the holy grail? Their flexibility allows freedom of movement, giving your body comfort while moulding into a shape like Play-Doh. On top of that, they’re extremely versatile garments — leggings that won’t fade after 1000 washes or a dress that flows along your curves beautifully — extra emphasis on beautifully.
And if you care about having clothes for years without breaking down or falling apart… well, learn this skill!
To start sewing with knit material, using the right tools is key:
- A ballpoint needle slips between yarns instead of stabbing them, which can cause damage.
- A walking foot or differential feed on a serger helps manage stretchy knits.
- A small zigzag stitch will give seams more strength than normal stitching, which can pop if stressed.
- Also, check if your machine has a stretch stitch feature; that’ll work perfectly, too.
3. Getting Started with Sewing Knit Fabric
3.1. Basics of How To Sew Knit Fabric
There’s a right knit fabric for every project. Lightweight knits are great for loose styles and flowy vibes, while heavier ones like double knits provide structure. Also, observe how much or how little fabric will have stretchy stitches and needle stretches because it determines how your garment will feel.
3.2. Essential Tools for Sewing Knit Fabric
A reliable sewing machine is key to any project, but needles specifically designed for knits are also essential. Threads that can stretch without breaking are another must-have.
Getting to know your sewing machine is important when working with knit fabrics. Make sure you’re familiar with the tension settings because if they are off, your stitches will be too — and that can lead to puckering or wavy seams that will detract from your finished knit garment.
Also, note what type of stitch you’re using; a small zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch is best for knits, but all machines vary, so play around with these settings on scraps until you find the perfect balance.
3.3. Needles and Stitches
The needles make a big difference. Ballpoint or jersey needles are designed to slip between fabric loops without causing snags. Similarly, no old zigzag stitch will do.
A narrow zigzag allows the seam to stretch with the fabric and lays flat on the right needle so it won’t pop when worn. If in doubt, consult your sewing machine manual for recommended settings for knit fabrics.
4. Sewing Techniques for Knit Fabric
4.1. Sewing Seams in Knit Fabric
Sewing seams in knit fabric requires a gentle touch. Don’t gently pull or tug at all; let the feed dogs of your machine move the material through naturally. A little bit of giving is necessary in every part of this process.
4.1.1. Knit Fabrics Come in Different Forms
Different stretches are associated with knit fabrics, most commonly two-way and four-way. Two-way fabric stretches either horizontally (crosswise) or vertically (lengthwise). Four-way stretches go both ways and offer maximum flexibility, which makes them suitable for athletic wear or swimwear.
4.1.2. Not Just Any Old Stitch Will Do
As we mentioned, small zigzag and stretch stitches work fine on knit fabrics — but there’s more where that came from! Here are a few other options:
Triple Stretch Stitch: A straight stitch locks three times at each stitch point, creating consecutive stitches and a strong seam that can handle heavy stretching.
Overlock Stitch (Serger): These give you a professional finish on stretchy fabrics and retain the elasticity of raw fabric edge, which is perfect for constructing seams.
Twin Needle Stitch: Using two needles simultaneously creates a neat finish similar to a cover stitch. This stitch allows stretch needles to stretch the fabric you’re working on without breaking any stitches.
When choosing your stitches, remember that you want them to be as organic as possible with the fabric. Not too tight or loose. All sorts of strange combinations, but make sure what you pick is right for your sewing project first.
4.1.3. Walking Foot Attachment
For an even better hold on your stretchy materials, attach a walking foot to the regular sewing machine if your machine does not have one. It’ll feed the layers of fabric evenly through the machine so nothing stretches or gets misaligned.
On top of mechanical considerations, sewn items can be adjusted for knit fabrics. Using a stretchy thread (like elastic or woolly nylon) for hand basting can provide additional flexibility in areas that require temporary stitching.
4.1.4. Handling Stretchy Fabrics
Knits can be difficult to work with, but they’re not impossible. Cutting techniques play a crucial role in maintaining the integrity of the fabric. It’s best to lay the knit fabric flat on a cutting surface and use weights instead of pins to hold the whole pattern piece in place – this minimizes distortion and stretching during the cutting process.
Rotary cutters are especially useful for knits, as they can provide a clean, precise cut without lifting the fabric.
Pressing knit fabrics requires a gentle approach, too. Avoid using a traditional ironing motion because it can stretch and misshape your piece. Instead, try pressing with minimal movement and light pressure. Steam settings are helpful, but direct contact should be avoided so as not to damage the fabric from heat.
If you’re working with edges that tend to curl, like jersey knits usually do, stabilizing them will make sewing much easier. You have options: fusible web tape, clear elastic, or lightweight interfacing that doesn’t restrict stretch.
5. Advanced Sewing Tips for Knit Fabric Mastery
Skipped stitches or wavy seams don’t necessarily mean you’re doing something wrong; trial and error is part of learning how your machine works with different materials. If you’re experiencing these issues, though:
Rethread your machine
Change your needle
Adjust tension
Don’t stress – everyone has been there before!
Preventing Skipped Stitches and Uneven Seams
Skipped stitches are sometimes caused by using the wrong size or type of needle (make sure yours is right!). Uneven seams could be due to the stitch width, length, or tension. Sometimes, reducing sewing speed alone will improve stitch quality immensely – test it out!
5.1. Utilizing Twin Needles and Serger Stitches
If you’re looking for something more professional, twin needles create two parallel lines of stitching, perfect for hems. Though unnecessary, a full serger stitch can provide robust seams and clean edges with its overlock stitch.
6. Creating Knit Garments Like a Pro
6.1. Reading and Using Knit Sewing Patterns
Knit sewing patterns are no different from woven ones – they guide you through construction. Look for patterns designed for knits (duh), and pay close attention to stretch percentage guidelines.
6.2. Tips for Sewing Specific Knit Garments
Different garments require different approaches. T-shirts benefit from stretchy neckbands, while dresses may need clear elastic to maintain shoulder seam shape. Always consider the end use of shoulder seams on the garment and choose stitches accordingly.
6.2.1. Sewing T-Shirts, Dresses, and More
When working on more structured knit garments and pattern pieces like turtle necks or jackets, it’s essential to balance the need for stretch with the need for stability. Using knit interfacing in areas that require more shape allows flexibility while providing structure. Also, stay-stitching techniques can prevent stretching in key areas during construction.
Materials used in active and swimwear often have a high Lycra or spandex content to help the garment keep its shape and offer support. These materials may require special sewing machine feet or attachments to handle the fabric’s stretch without damaging it. Testing stitching on woven fabric scraps before attempting the final product is always a good habit.
7. Finishing Touches on Sewing Knit Fabrics
7.1. Finishing Touches and Care for Knit Fabric Projects
Using a cover stitch machine for hems adds versatility and strength, mimicking the appearance of mass-produced knitwear. A zigzag stitch or stretch setting on a regular machine or a normal sewing machine will work as a substitute when this machine isn’t available.
The secret behind professional-quality clothing is in the hemming. The use of a twin needle creates cover stitch-like hems. To secure necklines and armholes, go with stretch binding instead of regular bias tape; this will keep elastic fabrics from stretching out.
7.2. Caring for and Washing Knit Garments
Caring for knits properly is critical to longevity, colour preservation, texture retention, etc. Depending on the fibres used to make the fabric, there may be specific laundering instructions to follow so you don’t ruin anything over time. Please consult your item’s care label if you are unsure how to proceed.
Generally speaking, hand washing delicate knits in cool water will ensure that they last long-term without any damage or discolouration. When using a machine or hand washing more resilient pieces, turn them inside out to protect embellishments from wear and tear.
Drying knit garments also requires attention to preserve their fit and feel. High heat can shrink or warp knit materials — an air-drying method is often best. Lay items flat out of direct sunlight — which can fade colours — in well-ventilated spaces away from moisture or extreme temperatures.
8. Mastering Knit Fabric Sewing: Final Thoughts
Sewing knits isn’t a skill that can be developed overnight — it takes time and patience. Instead of getting discouraged by mistakes or accidents, embrace the learning process and stay eager for improvement. Keep practising and exploring different techniques until, one day, you can confidently sew knit fabrics.
