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You are at:Home - Basics of Sewing - How to sew a lapped zipper? Mastering the Art of Sewing a Lapped Zipper
Basics of Sewing

How to sew a lapped zipper? Mastering the Art of Sewing a Lapped Zipper

Anna SmithBy Anna SmithDecember 3, 202305 Mins Read
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Want to add a lapped zipper in your outfit but, don’t know how? Well, don’t worry we will help you out in this blog. 

By the end of this article, you’ll be equipped with the knowledge and confidence to sew this essential element easily.

But before starting the process let’s first explain what a lapped zipper is? 

A lapped zipper is a type of zipper that uses a regular zipper to create an appearance of a side placket overlapping the regular zipper. 

It helps give your outfit a clean and polished look.

Depositphotos 10232310 S
Source: Depositphotos

1. Why & Where Lapped Zipper Is Used? 

Ladies, now that you have understood what a lapped zipper is, you must be wondering why it is used? 

Well, here is your answer; it is often used in medium weight fabrics such as tops and dresses to provide the necessary structure. Lapped zipper also makes your outfit look more appealing. 

It is often found in the center back, center front, or sometimes you can even find it on the side seam.

2. How to Add Lapped Zipper In Your Garments? 

Alright ladies, now you have understood the importance of a lapped zipper, let’s get into the main thing you are here for; how to sew a lapped zipper in clothes? 

Below mentioned is a time tested method that will help out. Now, let’s us get into this process of sewing a lapped zipper:

2.1. Marking and Pinning for Placement of Lapped Zipper

In the 1st step, you have transfer notches marking for zipper placement to your fabric.

In case, your fabric doesn’t have notches then you can use the length of your zipper to mark  its placement.will end. Here is how you can do it: 

You need to hold the zipper along the seam allowance. After that, you just need to mark your fabric through a fabric pencil. This will help create a clipped notch where the zipper’s bottom hits. Once you’re done with this pin the center back seam together. 

Depositphotos 13684529 S
Source: Depositphotos

2.2 Using Basting Stitches

Okay, on to the step 2 of getting basting stitches.

In this, as the name suggest, you need to use basting stitches to sew from the top of the seam allowance. Here’s how you can do it:

When you reach the notches, just use  back-stitches to sew it. You have to sew all the way to the bottom. 

2.3 Removing Basting Stitches

In the 3rd step, you need to remove these stitches. Here is how you can do it:

You just need to slit 2-3 stitches but without fully removing the thread. Once you’re done with this process, iron it.  Ironing will make it easier to handle its individual ends.

2.4 Zipper Placement

Let’s move onto the 4th step, this step is all about  zipper placement. Here is how you can do this:

First of all, move the fabric to the left side. This will allow the right seam allowance to remain on the proper side.

Secondly, now take your closed zipper and  place it against the seam. This will ensure that zipper teeth correspond to the seam you’ve created. 

Thirdly, use pins to secure the zipper’s tape to the seam allowance.

Depositphotos 161892450 S
Source: Depositphotos

2.5 Stitching the Zipper

In the 5th step, you need to machine stitch your zipper tape. Start from top and sew it along the middle of your fabric. At the bottom (where notches are) use backstitches to secure the stitches. 

Once you’re done with the sewing process, it’s time to turn the zipper facing right towards the left. Now, pin this fold in place along zipper tape. After that, repeat the entire sewing process to secure it. 

2.6 Mark Zipper Stop

In the 6th step, you need to turn your outfit to its face and mark it. Once you’re done with this, now you need to hand baste (hand sew)about 1/2″ to 3/4″ away from the seam. Make sure it goes every layer of fabric including the seam allowance and zipper tape.

2.7 Machined Stitch 

In this final step, you need to machine stitch using the basting stitch as a guide. Once you’re done with this remove temporary hand basting with a seam ripper.

Congratulations ladies, you have successfully sewn a lapped zipper on your own without anyone’s help. 

Depositphotos 36602881 S
Source: Depositphotos

3. Common Misconceptions About Lapped Zippers

Here are some common misconception about lapped that you should know: 

3.1 Placket Extending Over the Seam

It is one of the main misconceptions that beginners have about lapped zippers, for them a lapped zipper packet extends over the seam but, in reality the seam line is aligned. It won’t be covering the zippers. 

3.2 Clipping Seam Allowance

Another misconception is about clipping seam allowance, it’s not necessary for you to clip the seam allowance at the bottom of a lapped zipper.

Cliping is required for specific finishes but it should be avoided unnecessarily  as it can weaken durability of your fabric. 

3.3 Keeping Zipper Open During Sewing

In contrast to common belief, the proper way to apply a lapped zipper is to keep it opened. This ensures that both sides of the zipper are aligned.

Closing Thoughts

Many people believe that sewing a lapped zipper is very difficult. However, it is not true at all. It may seem challenging at first  but with practice and patience, you can easily master this skill. 

All you need to do is follow the steps mentioned above. So, what are you waiting for? Start stitching today! 

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