I recall a friend struggling with a leather project once. The stitches were uneven, the thread kept breaking, and frustration was written all over their face. “I don’t get it,” they said, holding up a torn piece of leather.
“Why won’t it sew like regular fabric?” That’s when I realized—most people don’t know the secret of a good leather needle. If you’re embarking on leather sewing, trust me, this little tool makes all the difference.
What’s So Special About a Leather Needle?
At first glance, a leather needle looks just like any other sewing needle. But there’s one game-changing difference: the pointy tip.
Unlike standard needles that pierce through the fabric, leather needles cut through leather, vinyl, and suede without tearing them apart. They create precise, clean stitches without putting extra strain on your machine—or your patience.
derek guy (@dieworkwear) highlights the art of saddle stitching, a meticulous technique where two needles pass through the same hole for unmatched durability. This method, used by luxury brands like Hermès, showcases the precision and craftsmanship that set high-quality leatherwork apart—just like the specialized needles designed for it.
Saddle stitching is when two needles pass through the same hole, either with an awl first piercing that hole and guiding a needle through, or with the holes punched by hand using a pricking iron. This is how things are made at Hermes (one of the few luxury brands not yet ruined) pic.twitter.com/coEaPJSBrK
— derek guy (@dieworkwear) November 29, 2023
Choosing the Right Needle Size (Because Size Matters)
Needle size isn’t just a number on the pack; it can make or break your project. Here’s a quick rundown:
- Small needles (Size 70/10 – 80/12): Perfect for thin leather and synthetic leather materials.
- Medium needles (Size 90/14 – 100/16): A good middle ground for most leather projects.
- Large needles (Size 110/18 – 120/19): Best for thick leather and heavy-duty sewing.
A friend once used a tiny needle for a thick leather belt. It bent within minutes and they had to start over. Lesson learned: match the needle size to your material.
Hand Sewing vs Machine Sewing: Does It Matter?
Short answer: yes. Whether you’re using an embroidery machine or stitching by hand, the right needle makes all the difference.
- For hand sewing: Look for glove needles, which have a sharp tip designed for manual work.
- For machine sewing: Use straight leather needles to avoid skipped stitches and thread breakage.
One time I watched someone try to sew leather with a regular quilting needle on their machine. The thread kept looping and skipping. They switched to a leather needle and voila—smooth stitches. Right tools = stress-free sewing.
The Must-Know Types of Leather Needles
If you’re standing in the needle aisle unsure of what to get, here’s your cheat sheet:
- Glover Needles: For hand-sewing leather projects.
- Straight Leather Needles: For home and industrial machines.
- Quilting and Embroidery Needles: For leather-like materials like vinyl and faux suede.
fania (@GriseldaVintage) shares a valuable tip for sewists—choosing the right needle for the fabric makes all the difference. Leather needles, for example, are designed with sharper points to pierce tough material smoothly. Matching the right needle and thread ensures clean, professional stitches; a must for any leatherworking project.
Pro tip for the sewists make sure your needles and threads match the fabric you’re working with makes stitches look good for example leather needles are pointier… there are different types and for stretch you need a ball point etc… also threads matter but for starters YouTube
— fania (@GriseldaVintage) September 10, 2023
Keeping Your Leather Needles Sharp and Ready
A dull needle will ruin your project faster than a bad stitch. Here’s how to keep your leather needles sharp:
- Replace them after every few projects (or if you notice skipped stitches).
- Store them properly—don’t just toss them in a drawer!
- Use a simple “fingernail test”: If the needle drags instead of gliding smoothly, it’s time for a new one.
Where to Find the Best Leather Needles Without Breaking the Bank
Not all needles are created equal and not all sellers price them fairly. If you’re shopping, here’s what to look for:
- Reputable brands like Bernina make good leather needles.
- Multi-packs can save you money if you sew often.
- Read online reviews before you click “Add to Cart.”
A fellow sewing friend once told me they bought the cheapest pack they could find—only to have every single needle break within hours. Sometimes spending a little more saves a lot of trouble.
ENNÈ ARTIST (@ennemusic) knows the value of having the right leather sewing machine needles on hand—especially for big creative projects. If you’re looking for quality needles without overspending, there are plenty of budget-friendly options. Whether shopping online or in local craft stores, finding durable leather needles at great prices is easier than you think.
This leather has been rescued from landfill and will be part of my show in March…but what am I going to make from it?! Find out soon… Just dug out my leather sewing machine needles thank God I have a few of those lol I feel I'm going to need it pic.twitter.com/uAA02bWErg
— ENNÈ ARTIST (@ennemusic) November 14, 2024
The Right Needle Makes All the Difference
That friend who was struggling with their leather project? They switched to a proper leather needle and finished their work without stress. “I had no idea a needle could make this big of a difference,” they admitted. And honestly, neither did I—until I saw it myself.
If you’re sewing leather, do yourself a favor: get the right needle. Your stitches (and your sanity) will thank you.
